I believe making a PC based RX/TX is pretty inefficient as you would get used to the controls on a real TX device much sooner than a PC keyboard, so take my advice and buy one. There are two common modes for model airplane/helicopter radio transmitters. The main difference is that the mode 2 transmitters have the throttle on the left stick while mode 1 has it on the right side. Here you can read more about modes of a transmitters.
There are famous brands such as Futaba, Spektrum, JR and also cheaper barnds like FlySky, Turnigy, HobbyKing. Cheaper models mostly share the same board/casing with different labels. Quality is mostly the same. If you would like to stick with cheap transmitters there are two obvious options to choose from as of today.
1. HobbyKing 6 channel 2.4Ghz (Branded as Flysky, iMax and more)
This is a very cheap transmitter sold for 32.95 with the Transmitter unit and receiver unit included. There is another one sold for even a cheaper price at 29.99. I would go for the 6 channel since it can be programmed with a PC USB cable for 2.99 which I highly recommend you to buy. This is a good starter unit if you are not about to use it for only one model. Here is a good review on the 4ch transmitter which is similar in hardware to the 6 channel.
2. Turnigy 9 channel (Also branded as Flysky, iMax and more)
This unit comes for 69.99 without the receiver or the transmitter. You only buy the remote control for this price. you can beef it up with Assan module or Corona module Transmitter and receiver modules. Here is a good review on it. This unit also comes with bundled TX/RX modules for a cheaper price like 109.19 including shipping and there is not much information provided about the bundled TX/RX unit and its quality.
To stay cheap I ordered a HobbyKing 6-ch transmitters. I have had minor problems but got over them all. Thanks to Hari, I followed his guide and used the Turborix software to configure the transmitter.
1. Cable driver: UL2102
2. ATeasy 7 runtime files: Ateasy 7-142c
3. Turborix configuration software: Programmer
4. Configuration for my own quad (Mode 2 transmitter): Turborix configuration set
Detailed info:
ATeasy installs the necessary runtime files needed to let you run the Turborix. I had problems installing the ATeasy6 from the given link in Hari’s website. So I visited the original website and installed ATeasy7 which works like a charm with Turborix. Try this first if it does not works goto here (get it from the ‘software pkgs’ at the bottom right side of the page)
Turborix is a replacement software developed thanks to keepitsimple. Since the configuration software, T6 Config, from the original vendor uses ‘Engrish’ I prefer not to use it.
You don’t need 8 AA (~12 Volts) batteries to power this transmitter. This unit needs to be powered by a source greater than 7 V, and anything above 7 Volts will turn into heat. A 12V supply will only produce more heat and has no effect whatsoever on anything like the range. I am using a 2 Cell 1000mAH Lipo (7.4V nominal) as power source. I modified the battery voltage monitoring LED so it will shine correctly. It is a simple matter of paralleling another resistor to the voltage divider resistors (I paralleled a 20K resistor along the 10K one):
FAQ :
How long is the range of this transmitter ?
I wouldn’t recommend that. I have not measured the current consumption of the transmitter, but I believe it has current bursts (momentary demands for high current) during transmission which is ‘not satisfiable’ by a small 9V battery (rechargeable ones that are rated for ~ 200mAH or more ‘may’ last for a very short time). Never risk your transmitter. It is the only thing that relates your hands to your expensive, and potentially harmful flying flying machine of yours.
If you have 8 AA rechargeable batteries lying around you can use them or if you want to look more ‘geek’ buy an extra 2 cell 1000mAH Lipo battery for almost 7$ from Hobbyking and enjoy.
Need more info on how to use T6 Config and sample configuration files ?
You can look here
Need more info and discussions about HobbyKing 4/6 Channel transmitter :
Look here
Hope this helps,
Farshid
Can you email me a picture of your mod to get the transmitter going with a 2S 1000mah. I do have this battery and want to try the mod. Any detail will be helpful.
Hi,
The modification is detailed in the pictures. Click on them and you will be able to get it to display at full size. However note that the transmitter will work without any problem before the modification. It is just the battery indicator LED which is affected by this modification.
Let me know if you need further help
It is in the pictures in the same post. Look more closely
nice info,thaks.
I trying to find out if the 6ch radio from hobbyking is FCC approved in the USA?
would you know ?
if it is, would you have a link for me? thanks
I know about costumers using it in us, but I am not sure about the FCC as I don’t have the transmitter in hand anymore. It should be possible to ask it from the online help of the HobbyKing website. They are quite fast.
The Hobby King 2.4 Ghz Tx is FCC approved. Please see the approval notice.
https://fjallfoss.fcc.gov/oetcf/tcb/reports/Tcb731GrantForm.cfm?mode=COPY&RequestTimeout=500&tcb_code=&application_id=748857&fcc_id=VPOFLYSKY003
HappyFlying!
IndiaHobby.blogspot.com
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Thanks Hwa,
Glad that it helped.
you can always tell the quality of USB cables by looking at the thickness of the cable. thicker usb cables have higher quality `;;
Have Hobby King 2.4Ghz 6 channel transmitter,plugged in the UL2102 cable driver into my computer and wizard installed the software, “CP 210XUSB to UART Bridge Controller”, so its now in the computer. Question, what do I do now to activate the software into the transmitter please?
Also have the 4channel version and have in the past bound the HK-TR6A receivers. Have just purchased 4 new receivers but they will not bind, the only thing i can think of is that the binding button on the transmitter is not functioning, any ideas please?
Harandi,
1. the Turnigy 9ch has ‘low battery’ alarm that beeps after voltage is <8V. How to overcome that if you use 2C (7.4V Lipo)?
2. I found the battery voltage reading is offset by about -1V when I compared measurement with a multimeter. Anyway to calibrate the voltage on the Tx display?
Thanks
Lim
Malaysia